Monday, February 27, 2006

Hatchling


Hatchling
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

A baby Green Turtle hatchling on Heron Island.

Protector at sunset


Protector at sunset
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

The Protector wreck at sunset on Heron Island.

Heron Island week four

The start of my fourth week on Heron Island was fairly standard, with a 7.30 shift on Monday and a 3.30 the following day. I had Wednesday and Thursday off though, and decided to stay on the island to try out some of the marine activities.

On my first day off I had a bit of a lazy day, just relaxing before going for my first proper swim in the afternoon at high tide. Because the beaches are so shallow, you can only go out around high tide because otherwise you'll just cut yourself on the coral, which you definitely don't want to do. I only went for a short dip, but it was so relaxing, especially since the water temperature is about 25 degrees centigrade, a lot different from the sea at home!

On Thursday I decided to take it a bit further and try snorkelling. I wasn't quite sure how much I'd like it, but on finding out that the dive centre have prescription masks (so I can see underwater without wearing glasses), I was much more enthusiastic. I went down to Shark Bay with a couple of friends and we went for a short snorkel around the shoreline.

I found breathing the hardest thing to get used to when snorkelling. It's so unusual to breathe when your face is underwater, so your body takes a while to get used to the ideal, or at least I did. Once I had myself settled down and my breathing steady, I was all set for exploring the coral that lies just off the beach at Heron.

It may be an over-used cliché, but it's like another world beneath the surface. Even on the sparsest patches of coral, there's all sorts going on with countless different fish swimming amongst the reef.

That afternoon I got on the snorkel boat out to the outer reef where the best coral is to be found. Here the wealth of animal and plant life is almost overwhelming. You just swim and float around amongst the reef, admiring all the amazing life below you. I've never seen anything like it before and I can't wait to get out there again with a waterproof camera.

My fourth week ended without too much excitement, with 3.30 shifts on Friday and Sunday, and a split shift on Saturday. I went for a morning snorkel to the Protector - the wrecked boat in the harbour - before work Saturday though, which was pretty cool when you saw the rusty ship as you approached it underwater.

Heron Island week three

My third week living and working on Heron began as ten new staff members arrived on the island. There's a reasonably high turn-around rate at the resort, with a lot of people only staying for a few months, but it's unusual for so many new people to come all at once. Amongst the new faces were Nikki and Simone, who applied for their jobs through the Work and Travel Company in exactly the same way that I did. It was somewhat comforting to have people around who were doing exactly the same as me.

Monday also saw the return of Internet access for staff on the island, with our computer in the canteen brought back to live, even if it's only a dial-up connection. I worked the 3.30pm shift that day, a split shift (11-3, 6-midnight) on Tuesday and then 3.30 again the following day.

Thursday was the first of two days off and I got up early to go fishing for the third time since I've been on the island. I didn't catch much due to the strong current which kept our lines from staying on the bottom - where all the fish are - but I got a Red Throat Emperor, a worthy and moreover tasty catch. That afternoon I got the ferry back to Gladstone, where I went shopping and got my hair cut, as well as updating this diary.

The next day I returned to Heron Island on the ferry, arriving as usual at about 2:30pm. After turtle-watching at the beach, I went down the main bar (as opposed to our staff bar, the "Wobbly") in the evening. Like many of the island facilities, we can use the bar along with the guests, except we have to abide by a dress code and are restricted to certain seating areas.

Over the weekend, I worked on my first 7.30-4 morning shifts, which added a bit of variety to my roster, although I'm not sure I like getting up so early every day. On the Saturday I finally finished the book which I bought five weeks previously in Napier, New Zealand, "Jonathan Strange and Mr Norell". It's probably one of the best books I've read in the last few years and although it's around 1000 pages long, it sure is worth the effort.

I finished my third week on Heron by phoning Rebekka and home, keeping in touch with the rest of the world out there. Sometimes it feels a little isolated, so it's nice to hear what's going outside of your own little bubble.

Thursday, February 09, 2006

At the beach


At the beach
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

The north-eastern corner of the island.

From swimmer...


From swimmer...
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

My Red Throat Emperor.

...to dinner!


...to dinner!
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

Mmmmm...

Heron Island week two

One of the first things people said to me when I got to Heron Island was that if I could get through the first two weeks, I'd be absolutely fine and would be all set for the three months I plan to stay there. They were dead right and over the last week I've settled in fully and it now feels more like home from home.

I started the week with two days off (the 30th and 31st). On Monday I got on the ferry to Gladstone, which arrived at about 3.30pm. After checking into a backpackers' hostel, I went for a wander around town, finding first the local library and then an ice cream shop with Internet access to update this blog. On the Tuesday I had the full day in the town, spending it shopping and then again at the library on the Internet. Free broadband access is something not to be missed when you've got no Internet access whatsoever on the island!

On Wednesday I got the ferry back to Heron, arriving an hour or so before work. The next day I had another day off, spending it at the beach reading my book and taking a few photos. It was one of the first days I've had when I've not been working in the evening, so I got a chance to see the sunset and go turtle watching at night. Green and Loggerhead turtles nest on Heron Island from November through to April, and you can watch them every night around high tide. I went on a guided turtle-watch, which gave the whole thing a bit of background as well. It was really interesting and the size of they can grow up to is incredible; the one we saw was over a metre and some reach over 2m.

Friday was a typical day for me; I had a 3.30pm shift and so spent the late morning at the beach, reading my book and listening to music. It's great that you can get away from the resort and all that it entails in a matter of minutes by walking to the beach, and to an extent you need to. I love to sit under a tree with the beach in front and the forest behind me, just taking it all in and having a break from everything and everyone. When you're in such a small place for such a long time with no real escape, I find that getting away to relax at the beach does a world of good.

As for work, throughout the week (except for Sunday), I did the same shift and in that I did almost the same job every time. I'm getting used to the different things we have to do, it's just a case of picking up the fastest way of working. Only tow of us are there to 'close' the kitchen every night, but that still involves a ton of work. It's pretty intense, but like I've said before, you get an awesome place to live and at a low cost of living to go with it.

On Saturday I took advantage of my late starting shift and got up early to go fishing. The first time I went, I didn't catch a thing, so I wasn't really very hopeful. In fact, apart from a few fish I caught in France a few years back in a man-made lake, I hadn't really caught a fish before, so I had nothing to lose in a sense. The luck was with me though and as soon as my line hit the bottom I started getting bites and continued to throughout the three hour trip. By the end of it, I had caught eight to ten fish!

The first one I pulled up was a huge Red Throat Emperor and I continued to catch similar smaller ones through the trip. I also caught a large Barramundi cod, probably about 50cm long, but couldn't keep it because it's now an endangered species. When they were available to catch, they were some of the most expensive fish in the world.

So I was really very pleased with myself by the time I got back. Working in the kitchen, I know all the chefs, so I got one of them to cook my fish for lunch. I expected him to fillet it up and just cook it simply, but he did it whole in much the same way that the guests get it. It looked awesome and tasted just as good.

That afternoon I worked my usual 3.30 shift and then on Sunday I ended the week with the easiest shift you can get; 10 to 6.30. Being one of the few times I got to have the evening off, I went down to the main bar with some colleagues and met some of the ten new staff that arrived that day. When there are people around that are newer than you, it certainly gives you the feeling that you've settled in and that you've become one of the rest. It certainly feels like home from home now.

Tuesday, January 31, 2006

A bird on Heron Island


A bird on Heron Island
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

Not a heron, but there are thousands of these everywhere.

Heron Island


Heron Island
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

The start of North Beach on Heron Island.

Heron Island week one

On the 22nd, I got a plane from Sydney to Brisbane and then a seven hour train from there to Gladstone. Gladstone is a small industrial town on the east coast of the country, but more importantly for me, the gateway to Heron Island.

Lying 72km off the mainland, Heron Island is 40 acres of coral cay in the southern section of the Great Barrier Reef. I got a job there on the 20th, and would travel there on Monday.

So on the 23rd, I went down to the marina in Gladstone and boarded the daily ferry to the island, with the trip lasting just over two hours. Sailing to Heron is about the equivalent of going to France and back from England at the nearest point.

When I got to Heron, I was immediately struck by its beauty. It's literally like walking into a postcard or travel brochure, with white sandy beaches and crystal clear water. One of the chefs, James, met me at the jetty and took me for a short walk through the main parts of the resort where I would be working, before handing me over to Steve, my roommate. He then showed me all around the island, explaining how everything works. Believe me, it's a lot to take in!

Basically the whole island is split into the resort, a research station and the rest is national park. The staff village is where I live in the middle of the island and accommodation is in twin-share rooms, each with cupboards, verandahs, tables, chairs and fridges. It's not on par with what the guests are used to, but it's certainly more comfortable and relaxed than many hostels. Toilet and shower facilities are shared, but the facilities block - nicknamed Siberia for some reason - is only a short walk away from my room.

I started work on Tuesday and worked every day of last week up to Sunday (the 29th, if you're keeping track). I work in the resort's kitchen as a 'stweard', which basically involves cleaning up, washing dishes and some simple food preparation. It's hard, intense work, but the numbers of guests is declining all the time at this part of the season and it's worth it to live on Heron Island.

The main benefit of living on Heron is that you can enjoy the same lifestyle that guests do, to an extent. All of the activities are available at a hugely reduced price; fishing is $2.50 instead of $65, while a trip in the semi-submersible is $0.40 instead of $30. You can also just relax at the beach, have a swim or go for a walk amongst the coral any time you're not working and beacuse the island is so small, you can get to the beach in about two minutes (walking around the island only takes 20).

All but one of my shifts so far has been 3pm to midnight, thus allowing me to have the entire morning and much of hte afternoon off. I've taken the oppurtunity to fill up this free time with all sorts of activities that we can do for free or a low cost. On Wednesday I went for a free two hour reef walk, which is a guided tour of the inner coral reef. Because coral surrounds the island, you can walk straight off the beach into it and get up really close at low tide. It was a really interesting walk because I've never seen coral up close before and even though it isn't the colourful type that you see in the media, it's fascinating.

On Saturday I went on the semi-submersible, where you sit in the hull of a boat which is lined with windows, so you can look out over the coral and see it like you would if you were diving. They take you out over the outer section of the coral reef, where it's much deeper and more colourful. You can also see all sorts of animals swimming by, from turtles and fish to eagle rays and sharks.

Talking of sharks, Heron Island's beaches and coastal waters are surprisingly safe. There are no box jellyfish - the worst type - and even the less harmful ones are never seen at the beach. There are reef sharks, but they only grow up to about a metre and are more scared of humans than we are of them. Cutting yourself on coral is the only other real danger and that can be easily treated. The best part of the beach apart from the sand is the water temperature though, a warm 25 degrees celcius.

On Sunday I went fishing for three hours before work, which was enjoyable even if I was the only person on the boat not to catch a thing! There's time yet though, especially if it only costs us $2.50 for each trip.

What else is there to say about living and working on Heron Island? Well, it's like living in an aviary sometimes, with about 300,000 birds on the island and only about 300 people at the moment. It's not uncommon to be the 'target' of birds as you walk under trees, so you just walk around a bit quicker than usual! Food on the island is also pretty good too. There's a self-service staff canteen that you can go to at any time during the day where you can help yourself to the three meals served per day along with an ever-present salad bar and (even better) an ice cream freezer.

So I've enjoyed my first week on Heron Island and intend to stay the remaining twelve. It's hard work in the kitchen for sure, but the benefits of living on Heron make it all worth while. It's so relaxed there and such a great experience. Let's hope it stays that way!

Saturday, January 21, 2006

Off to Heron Island

Today all I did was to prepare for going to Heron Island tomorrow. This morning I went down to Work and Travel to check my email and the woman from the resort had sent me a load of information and forms to read through, which I did. You can find out about Heron Island at their website.

So I went and bought a pair of steel-toe-capped work boots, a new pair of jeans (my old ones fell apart in New Zealand) and three shirts. Being an exclusive resort, you've got to dress 'smart casual' a lot of the time when you're not working, so I've replaced a few older T-shirts that are wearing out with these new smarter ones.

So this might be the last time you hear from me for a while. There's no mobile phone coverage on the island and only one computer for 135 staff! I should be able to access the Internet at Gladstone, the mainland town nearest to the island, maybe once every ten days or so.

Tomorrow I catch a flight from Sydney to Brisbane, then get a train from Brisbane to Gladstone in the afternoon, arriving at about 6.30pm. On Monday morning I'll catch the ferry to the island and I think I actually start work on Tuesday.

19

Friday was my 19th birthday, my first away from home and probably my most eventful. In the morning I went to the Work and Travel office, read my emails and then arranged to meet up with Ness and Brian, some friends I know from home (Ness is the daughter of our neighbour at home and now lives out in Australia with Brian).

I met Ness down at Circular Quay and we caught a ferry to Manly, one of the suburbs on the northern shore of the harbour. We went for a quick walk round and it seemed like a nice place, although a bit too like an English seaside resort (they actually wanted to rename it Brighton a few decades ago).

After Brian picked us up and drove us back to their house, Ness drove me around the area to show me a few local sights. When we were at a lookout overlooking Manly, I got a phone call from the woman at Heron Island. She offered me the job!

Of course I accepted and much relieved, I returned with Ness to their house for dinner. We had a nice meal accompanied by champagne (and even custard; a favourite of mine that's rarely available outside of the UK in a ready-made form).

I got a phone call from home which was great and it was also nice to be with people I know for my birthday. I knew that Christmas and my birthday wouldn't be normal for these two years, but at least I've been with farmiliar company for both.

Brown Frog


Brown Frog
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

Nor do I know the exact name of this one!

Bear


Bear
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

Forgive me, I don't know exactly what type of bear this is!

Red Panda


Red Panda
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

At Taronga Zoo

Friday, January 20, 2006

A Zoo and an interview

On Thursday morning I went down to the Royal Botanical Gardens because it's one of the quietest places I could find and had my phone interview with a woman at Heron Island. I think it went fairly well even though I was hurried on some questions and couldn't answer fully. They'd also changed my application to be a kitchen steward instead of a room attendant because there were other people more qualified.

After the interview, I went back to the Work and Travel office and then had lunch before going to Taronga Zoo. Located across the harbour on the northern shore, it's fairly expensive compared to something like the aquarium, but probably worth the cost. Like any zoo, there are plenty of tigers, lions and the like, but this one has a more Australasian theme with plenty of kangaroos and other native animals, some of which I haven't seen before.

After a trip to the zoo, I returned to Base Backpackers and then went to the Work and Travel office where they were hosting a 'Northern Territory discovery night'. It was basically a big PR event with lots of tour operators and the tourism board for the NT there, but they were giving away free food and drink as well as prizes. The Northern Territory isn't one of the most popular areas of Australia, but it's definitely worth a visit and it's somewhere I'll no doubt be heading sooner or later.

Do not enter


Do not enter
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

I love the sign :)

The day I bought an umbrella

In short, Sydney's weather is hardly ideal at the moment. Every day it's raining very lightly, but enough to stop you from going out and doing anything. It's so frustrating to be stuck inside or limited to indoor attractions. So on Tuesday I went and bought my first umbrella, in summer-time Sydney of all places!

After going to Work and Travel in the morning to check on the Internet, I met up with Victoria for lunch. She was travelling off to Melbourne, so I said goodbye shortly after and walked to the Sydney Aquarium in Darling Harbour.

Apparently the Sydney Aquarium is the country's most visited attraction, and I don't know whether to be surprised at that or not. I would have thought that something like Uluru or the Opera House would top it, but not so. When you visit the aquarium though, it's obvious why it's so highly recommended by everyone.

The aquarium is split up into different zones themed by environment, incorporating all sorts of different marine wildlife, from starfish to alligators and sharks. There are even three tanks which you can walk through in glass tunnels, with the fish swimming all around you.

After visiting the aquarium, I went to Work and Travel and then to Base Backpackers to book a few more nights, before going to Hyde Park to have a quiet read. That evening I had a walk around Darling Harbour, which I hadn't seen at night before.

On Wednesday morning I checked out of the Wood Duck Inn and got a taxi back to Base, where I checked in. My new room is actually double the size of the old one with the same number of beds, which is quite unusual for a city hostel.

I spent much of the day at the Work and Travel office, waiting for a phone call from the people at the resort, but they didn't call so I asked the job advisors to follow up the application. The woman who had handled my application arranged a telephone interview for the following morning, which I was really pleased about because I could at least prepare for a certain time and not spend whole days worrying about phone signal strength.

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Concert of Fire


Concert of Fire
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.

The free Concert of Fire in Darling Harbour.