Rangitoto Island
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
Rangitoto Island, as seen from Devonport.
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
Devonport and Rangitoto
On Tuesday (the 22nd), Rebekka and I spent the day in the Auckland suburb of Devonport, just across the harbour from the city centre. We had all day, so just took our time looking around a second-hand bookshop and climbing Mount Victoria before lunch. After that, we had a walk through Allison Park to Narrow Neck Beach, then around the headland to Cheltenham Beach and North Head. We returned to the main street for dinner and then back on the ferry to central Auckland.
We spent almost all of Wednesday on Rangitoto Island, the newest of Auckland's volcanoes. There are only three ferries a day, so we went on the 9am one and came back at 3pm, allowing ourselves time to walk to the summit via the lava caves and then back down via one of the coastal paths. It was a really beautiful day and the New Zealand Christmas Tree (or Pohutukawa) is coming out now, so it turned the island into a strange volcanic paradise.
We spent almost all of Wednesday on Rangitoto Island, the newest of Auckland's volcanoes. There are only three ferries a day, so we went on the 9am one and came back at 3pm, allowing ourselves time to walk to the summit via the lava caves and then back down via one of the coastal paths. It was a really beautiful day and the New Zealand Christmas Tree (or Pohutukawa) is coming out now, so it turned the island into a strange volcanic paradise.
Monday, November 28, 2005
Back in Auckland
On Monday (21st), Rebekka and I got up early to say goodbye to the others who had been on our Flying Kiwi bus tour for the last few weeks. The trip would head North to the Bay of Island for three days and then return to Auckland, where we would meet up with Helene, Gesche and Pascal again as they got off.
Rebekka and I hauled our stuff up Queen Street to ACB (Auckland Central Backpackers), then I went to the IEP office and back to ACB to go on the Internet. We had lunch at an Italian food court place, then went around the huge Borders book shop for an hour or so. For dinner, we met up with Jennifer who I'd met in Auckland before the Flying Kiwi tour. We didn't do a lot that day, but we definitely needed time to just relax and organise our stuff.
Rebekka and I hauled our stuff up Queen Street to ACB (Auckland Central Backpackers), then I went to the IEP office and back to ACB to go on the Internet. We had lunch at an Italian food court place, then went around the huge Borders book shop for an hour or so. For dinner, we met up with Jennifer who I'd met in Auckland before the Flying Kiwi tour. We didn't do a lot that day, but we definitely needed time to just relax and organise our stuff.
At the farm show
At the farm show
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
From right to left: Rebekka, Helene, Libby, Katie, ?, Jenn, Pascal, Grant, ?...
Flying Kiwi day twenty seven - Waitomo
Sunday (the 20th) was my last day on the Flying Kiwi tour, and one that would take me back to Auckland where I started, via Waitomo. Almost all of the day was spent driving, with the only real stop in Waitomo, famous for its caves.
There was no space on any of the caving trips, so we went for an hour long walk through a section of rainforest to see various caves, waterfalls and the like, before heading back to the bus for lunch. It was then on to a farm for a 'Kiwi culture show', the like of which I've never seen before.
The farm show turned out to be performed by one guy and his collection of animals. When he wanted a donkey or sheep on stage, he cued them by pulling a string which would then open a pen outside in the yard, sending the animal trotting down a path and into the barn where the audience were sitting. The main theme was how the pioneers of New Zealand turned the country into farmland, and it eneded up being quite interesting. All of the grassy fields, for instance, were created by hand as the trees were chopped down and replaced with grass seed. Not a task for the faint hearted!
Talking of tasks, the show was quite audience orientated, even with only about a dozen of us. He got Jenn to light a fuse and then a handful of us to help sheer a sheep, which some of us found a little awkward to say the least. Anyway, it was an enjoyable show, even if it was a little eccentric.
From Waitomo, we continued on to Auckland, where we checked in to Base Backpackers. Helene, Pascal, Rebekka, Jenn, Gesche and I then went out for a meal and a drink before heading back to the hostel after an exhausting day.
There was no space on any of the caving trips, so we went for an hour long walk through a section of rainforest to see various caves, waterfalls and the like, before heading back to the bus for lunch. It was then on to a farm for a 'Kiwi culture show', the like of which I've never seen before.
The farm show turned out to be performed by one guy and his collection of animals. When he wanted a donkey or sheep on stage, he cued them by pulling a string which would then open a pen outside in the yard, sending the animal trotting down a path and into the barn where the audience were sitting. The main theme was how the pioneers of New Zealand turned the country into farmland, and it eneded up being quite interesting. All of the grassy fields, for instance, were created by hand as the trees were chopped down and replaced with grass seed. Not a task for the faint hearted!
Talking of tasks, the show was quite audience orientated, even with only about a dozen of us. He got Jenn to light a fuse and then a handful of us to help sheer a sheep, which some of us found a little awkward to say the least. Anyway, it was an enjoyable show, even if it was a little eccentric.
From Waitomo, we continued on to Auckland, where we checked in to Base Backpackers. Helene, Pascal, Rebekka, Jenn, Gesche and I then went out for a meal and a drink before heading back to the hostel after an exhausting day.
Mount Taranaki
Mount Taranaki
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
You can just about see Mount Taranaki in the background. The sun was shining right towards me, so I had little option but to hide it behind this tree.
Flying Kiwi day twenty six - Wellington
We only had until 1pm in Wellington on Saturday, but because Rebekka and I had already been to the city the last time the tour came through the North Island, we had a more relaxed morning while the others went to Te Papa, the national museum. After breakfast, we went for a look around the shops, the parliament buildings and Old St Paul's Catherdral, before getting on the bus at the train station.
Flying Kiwi keep their buses on the repective islands, so Rebekka, Pascal and I who had joined at Auckland got on our old bus, except now with a new driver. Grant and his assistant Libby would be heading around both islands, but they'd only take a few of us for the two days back to Auckland.
The last two days probably contain the longest drives of the whole tour, and as a result we only got off to get a takeaway dinner near Mt. Taranaki before arriving at Onaero for the night.
Flying Kiwi keep their buses on the repective islands, so Rebekka, Pascal and I who had joined at Auckland got on our old bus, except now with a new driver. Grant and his assistant Libby would be heading around both islands, but they'd only take a few of us for the two days back to Auckland.
The last two days probably contain the longest drives of the whole tour, and as a result we only got off to get a takeaway dinner near Mt. Taranaki before arriving at Onaero for the night.
Sunday, November 27, 2005
The Marlborough Sounds
The Marlborough Sounds
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
The view as you head out of Picton on the ferry.
Flying Kiwi day twenty five - Nelson
On Friday (the 18th), we left Abel Tasman and set off for Nelson, one of the oldest settlements in New Zealand. It was a sunny day, but one with a lot of driving and few stops. When we got to Nelson, we had three hours to do whatever we wanted, so Rebekka, Matteo, Helene, Kerstin, Pascal, John, Katie, Gesche and I went for lunch at one of the town's many cafes. After a quick stop at the supermarket, we went for a walk in one of the parks, before heading back to the bus.
It was then on to Picton for our ferry and where we would drop of those who wouldn't be staying with us on the trip back to the North Island. Laura, Catrina, Ilisa and Kerstin left us in Nelson, while Matteo, John and Yvonne got off in Picton.
We also had to leave our guide, Lisa, at Picton as she'd then have a nine day holiday before starting a whole new trip around both islands. She was an awesome driver and guide, really enthusiastic and always there to help us. It's a very intense job with few breaks, and given that it's her first solo trip, I thought she did superbly.
The eleven of us who were travelling North then got on the ferry, which took about three hours to reach Wellington, where we stayed at Base Backpackers.
It was then on to Picton for our ferry and where we would drop of those who wouldn't be staying with us on the trip back to the North Island. Laura, Catrina, Ilisa and Kerstin left us in Nelson, while Matteo, John and Yvonne got off in Picton.
We also had to leave our guide, Lisa, at Picton as she'd then have a nine day holiday before starting a whole new trip around both islands. She was an awesome driver and guide, really enthusiastic and always there to help us. It's a very intense job with few breaks, and given that it's her first solo trip, I thought she did superbly.
The eleven of us who were travelling North then got on the ferry, which took about three hours to reach Wellington, where we stayed at Base Backpackers.
Dolphins at Abel Tasman
Dolphins at Abel Tasman
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
Bottle-nosed dolphins playing at Abel Tasman National Park.
Saturday, November 26, 2005
Flying Kiwi day twenty four - Abel Tasman National Park
Thursday was a free day, allowing us to do whatever we wanted to in Abel Tasman National Park, which was a walk away from us in Marahau (on a side note, our campsite was called Old MacDonald's Farm, the same as in the childrens' song).
Most people on the bus did a kayaking trip, but as I'd already done kayaking at Coromandel, I chose to go on a seven hour sailing trip around the various bays and islands of the national park instead. The wind was ironically absent, so the captain just cruised around the coast using the ship's engine.
After a look at Split Apple Rock and trip up a river, amongst other things, we stopped at Anchorage Beach for lunch. Although the weather wasn't ideal with overcast skies, the scenery made up for it. The sand was probably the best I've seen since I've been in New Zealand; soft and golden like you see in postcards of paradise islands.
Once we got back into the bay, a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins appeared and followed us around for about half an hour, playing around in the sea before us. It was especially cool because on a ship like ours, there are no walls or windows to get in the way, so you can stand on the front corners and take pictures from a great viewpoint. Most of the others on the boat seemed to give up taking pictures after a while because their cameras weren't fast enough, so I managed to get an excellent set of photos from the trip. That evening we went out to a local cafe for a meal, and while the food wasn't quite up to standard, there were a bunch of cool local artists providing the music.
Most people on the bus did a kayaking trip, but as I'd already done kayaking at Coromandel, I chose to go on a seven hour sailing trip around the various bays and islands of the national park instead. The wind was ironically absent, so the captain just cruised around the coast using the ship's engine.
After a look at Split Apple Rock and trip up a river, amongst other things, we stopped at Anchorage Beach for lunch. Although the weather wasn't ideal with overcast skies, the scenery made up for it. The sand was probably the best I've seen since I've been in New Zealand; soft and golden like you see in postcards of paradise islands.
Once we got back into the bay, a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins appeared and followed us around for about half an hour, playing around in the sea before us. It was especially cool because on a ship like ours, there are no walls or windows to get in the way, so you can stand on the front corners and take pictures from a great viewpoint. Most of the others on the boat seemed to give up taking pictures after a while because their cameras weren't fast enough, so I managed to get an excellent set of photos from the trip. That evening we went out to a local cafe for a meal, and while the food wasn't quite up to standard, there were a bunch of cool local artists providing the music.
Flying Kiwi day twenty three - Punakaiki to Abel Tasman
On Wednesday (the 16th), we packed up and moved off from Punakaiki, heading towards Abel Tasman National Park. Incidentally, Abel Tasman was the Dutch explorer who was the first European to discover New Zealand and subsequently name it, although he never set foot on the land after a run-in with a local Maori tribe.
Most of the day was spent on the bus travelling through Buller Gorge, with a stop for a walk to a seal colony and then a further break in Murchison for lunch. Most days we only drive for maybe three hours, but today was much longer in terms of time on the road, although we would spend two nights at Abel Tasman National Park to make up for it.
Most of the day was spent on the bus travelling through Buller Gorge, with a stop for a walk to a seal colony and then a further break in Murchison for lunch. Most days we only drive for maybe three hours, but today was much longer in terms of time on the road, although we would spend two nights at Abel Tasman National Park to make up for it.
Flying Kiwi day twenty two - Punakaiki
On the Tuesday, we had the whole day at Punakaiki to do whatever we pleased, so after breakfast Helene, Rebekka and I set off for the Pancake Rocks just up the hill, the main tourist attraction in the area. As far as I understand, no-one quite knows why the rocks there form in a way that makes them appear to be like a stack of pancakes, but they're equally interesting and scenic nonetheless.
After our walk to the rocks, we came back down the hill and had a drink in the local pub's nice garden, before heading off for the Truman Track up the road, which ultimately leads to a beach. The great weather, the presence of the rainforest and absence of cars made it feel more like a Caribbean island than New Zealand. You won't see this part of the country and this type of landscape in The Lord Of The Rings, so it doesn't always feature prominently in tourist material, but it should really be promoted more.
After a 20 minute walk through the rainforest of the Truman Track, you're rewarded with a narrow and secluded beach set in along the coastline. There only about six other people there and we had almost as long as we wanted, so Helene, Rebekka and I just spent an hour or two relaxing at the beach, taking a welcome break from our usually packed Flying Kiwi schedule.
We walked back for lunch at the pub, then went back to the campsite and helped to clean the bus. After another hour at the more immediate of the beaches, we had dinner and then went off to see a glow-worm cave, although the three luminous animals that we could find weren't that amazing.
Every now and then you need a day off, even from a bus tour, and that day was ours. It was just nice not to have to sit in the bus for hours or put up tents, things like that. The weather and company were great, so all in all, a very enjoyable day.
After our walk to the rocks, we came back down the hill and had a drink in the local pub's nice garden, before heading off for the Truman Track up the road, which ultimately leads to a beach. The great weather, the presence of the rainforest and absence of cars made it feel more like a Caribbean island than New Zealand. You won't see this part of the country and this type of landscape in The Lord Of The Rings, so it doesn't always feature prominently in tourist material, but it should really be promoted more.
After a 20 minute walk through the rainforest of the Truman Track, you're rewarded with a narrow and secluded beach set in along the coastline. There only about six other people there and we had almost as long as we wanted, so Helene, Rebekka and I just spent an hour or two relaxing at the beach, taking a welcome break from our usually packed Flying Kiwi schedule.
We walked back for lunch at the pub, then went back to the campsite and helped to clean the bus. After another hour at the more immediate of the beaches, we had dinner and then went off to see a glow-worm cave, although the three luminous animals that we could find weren't that amazing.
Every now and then you need a day off, even from a bus tour, and that day was ours. It was just nice not to have to sit in the bus for hours or put up tents, things like that. The weather and company were great, so all in all, a very enjoyable day.
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
Flying Kiwi day twenty one - up the West coast
On Monday (the 14th), the weather cleared up and we headed off North up the West coast. It was a long day of driving, dotted with stops at various points of interest along the way.
Our first port of call was a greenstone factory-shop, displaying some of the awesome Maori carvings which you can find all across New Zealand. From there, it was on to Ross, a village known for its huge untapped gold reserves, which can't be exploited unless all of its residents back a mining project. Ross is typical small town New Zealand; wide empty roads bordered by sporadic houses and the odd shop, with a vague claim to fame for some reason or another.
The town of Hokitika was our destination for lunch, where a number of us went off to a cool restaurant to sample the local favourite; white bait. I had an omlette filled with the tiny fish, and while it looked a bit odd, it tasted nice nonetheless.
Greymouth was our next stop, where Guy, James and Mel, who joined us in Auckland, got off to board the Trans-Alpine train that would take them across the waist of the South Island to Christchurch. Our final drive of the day was to Punakaiki, where we would camp for the next two nights.
Our first port of call was a greenstone factory-shop, displaying some of the awesome Maori carvings which you can find all across New Zealand. From there, it was on to Ross, a village known for its huge untapped gold reserves, which can't be exploited unless all of its residents back a mining project. Ross is typical small town New Zealand; wide empty roads bordered by sporadic houses and the odd shop, with a vague claim to fame for some reason or another.
The town of Hokitika was our destination for lunch, where a number of us went off to a cool restaurant to sample the local favourite; white bait. I had an omlette filled with the tiny fish, and while it looked a bit odd, it tasted nice nonetheless.
Greymouth was our next stop, where Guy, James and Mel, who joined us in Auckland, got off to board the Trans-Alpine train that would take them across the waist of the South Island to Christchurch. Our final drive of the day was to Punakaiki, where we would camp for the next two nights.
Flying Kiwi day twenty - Fox Glacier
New Zealand gets all its weather from the West and when the clouds hit the Southern Alps, they have to rise and so it rains. The West Coast is one of the wettest places in the world, with over 10 metres of rain falling per year in some areas. When we drove into Fox Glacier, the service village of the glacier of the same name, the West Coast was certainly living up to its reputation!
Guy and I had wanted to do a heli-hike up the glacier, but due to the weather it was cancelled and instead we decided to go on a four hour guided walk with a dozen others from the trip. We were suited up with waterproof gear, boots, socks and crampons (which stop you slipping on ice), before being driven to the foot of the glacier to start our ascent.
It continued to rain as we made our way up the valley to the glacier's snout, but after 40 minutes it cleared off and it became a really enjoyable hike. Our guide let us up the glacier through a pre-cut route which while well defined, was still pretty tough going.
I've studied glaciers at school before, but I'd never seen one in action, let alone walked around on top of one, so it was great to be able to go and experience something that you've only ever read about. On our way back down, we heard several loud groans from the glacier, followed by a huge chunk of ice the size of a small car falling off the front of it. Fox is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world at an advance of a metre a day, but I never expected to actually see it change quite so suddenly! Our guide had only ever seen a piece of ice fall of in such a way once before, so I guess we were very lucky in that respect.
Just as we got back on the Flying Kiwi bus, the heavens opened again and we drove through the rain to neighbouring Franz Josef, the sister glacier to Fox, where we stayed the night at a hostel.
Guy and I had wanted to do a heli-hike up the glacier, but due to the weather it was cancelled and instead we decided to go on a four hour guided walk with a dozen others from the trip. We were suited up with waterproof gear, boots, socks and crampons (which stop you slipping on ice), before being driven to the foot of the glacier to start our ascent.
It continued to rain as we made our way up the valley to the glacier's snout, but after 40 minutes it cleared off and it became a really enjoyable hike. Our guide let us up the glacier through a pre-cut route which while well defined, was still pretty tough going.
I've studied glaciers at school before, but I'd never seen one in action, let alone walked around on top of one, so it was great to be able to go and experience something that you've only ever read about. On our way back down, we heard several loud groans from the glacier, followed by a huge chunk of ice the size of a small car falling off the front of it. Fox is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world at an advance of a metre a day, but I never expected to actually see it change quite so suddenly! Our guide had only ever seen a piece of ice fall of in such a way once before, so I guess we were very lucky in that respect.
Just as we got back on the Flying Kiwi bus, the heavens opened again and we drove through the rain to neighbouring Franz Josef, the sister glacier to Fox, where we stayed the night at a hostel.
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