Monday, December 19, 2005
Back to Auckland (again)
On the Friday, Rebekka was flying home to Germany, so we checked out of ACB and spent the late morning and early afternoon relaxing in Auckland. With everything packed and ready to go, we got on the AirBus to the airport, but it took much longer than we expected to get there, as the rush-hour traffic came into full effect. We got to the airport with only an hour to go until the plane took off, so we rushed through check in and sprinted to the security gate where I said goodbye to Rebekka. When I go there in a few weeks, I'll be allowing a lot more time than we did, that's for sure!
The bay at Leigh
The bay at Leigh
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
This is the view from the road leading to the lab at Leigh.
Friday, December 09, 2005
Leigh
Leigh is about an hour's drive north of Auckland and the lab is just outside the village in a marine reserve opposite Goat Island. Because it's a protected environment, there's a huge population of wildlife in its sheltered bay, so it's very popular with tourists.
We spent 12 days at the lab, the first three living in a bunk room on site, and the rest staying at the house of the lab's handyman, Tom. Most days we'd go the lab in the morning and then spend the day at the beach or sitting somewhere to read. Rebekka had to work as well, but only for a few hours a day.
It was nice to relax and not do a lot for such a long period of time. We went to a couple of markets, out sampling a beach, went for a swim and to a Christmas Carol concert, but apart from that we just spent the time enjoying the usually warm weather and good scenery.
Tuesday, December 06, 2005
Sunday, December 04, 2005
Auckland
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
Devonport and Rangitoto
We spent almost all of Wednesday on Rangitoto Island, the newest of Auckland's volcanoes. There are only three ferries a day, so we went on the 9am one and came back at 3pm, allowing ourselves time to walk to the summit via the lava caves and then back down via one of the coastal paths. It was a really beautiful day and the New Zealand Christmas Tree (or Pohutukawa) is coming out now, so it turned the island into a strange volcanic paradise.
Monday, November 28, 2005
Back in Auckland
Rebekka and I hauled our stuff up Queen Street to ACB (Auckland Central Backpackers), then I went to the IEP office and back to ACB to go on the Internet. We had lunch at an Italian food court place, then went around the huge Borders book shop for an hour or so. For dinner, we met up with Jennifer who I'd met in Auckland before the Flying Kiwi tour. We didn't do a lot that day, but we definitely needed time to just relax and organise our stuff.
At the farm show
At the farm show
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
From right to left: Rebekka, Helene, Libby, Katie, ?, Jenn, Pascal, Grant, ?...
Flying Kiwi day twenty seven - Waitomo
There was no space on any of the caving trips, so we went for an hour long walk through a section of rainforest to see various caves, waterfalls and the like, before heading back to the bus for lunch. It was then on to a farm for a 'Kiwi culture show', the like of which I've never seen before.
The farm show turned out to be performed by one guy and his collection of animals. When he wanted a donkey or sheep on stage, he cued them by pulling a string which would then open a pen outside in the yard, sending the animal trotting down a path and into the barn where the audience were sitting. The main theme was how the pioneers of New Zealand turned the country into farmland, and it eneded up being quite interesting. All of the grassy fields, for instance, were created by hand as the trees were chopped down and replaced with grass seed. Not a task for the faint hearted!
Talking of tasks, the show was quite audience orientated, even with only about a dozen of us. He got Jenn to light a fuse and then a handful of us to help sheer a sheep, which some of us found a little awkward to say the least. Anyway, it was an enjoyable show, even if it was a little eccentric.
From Waitomo, we continued on to Auckland, where we checked in to Base Backpackers. Helene, Pascal, Rebekka, Jenn, Gesche and I then went out for a meal and a drink before heading back to the hostel after an exhausting day.
Mount Taranaki
Mount Taranaki
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
You can just about see Mount Taranaki in the background. The sun was shining right towards me, so I had little option but to hide it behind this tree.
Flying Kiwi day twenty six - Wellington
Flying Kiwi keep their buses on the repective islands, so Rebekka, Pascal and I who had joined at Auckland got on our old bus, except now with a new driver. Grant and his assistant Libby would be heading around both islands, but they'd only take a few of us for the two days back to Auckland.
The last two days probably contain the longest drives of the whole tour, and as a result we only got off to get a takeaway dinner near Mt. Taranaki before arriving at Onaero for the night.
Sunday, November 27, 2005
The Marlborough Sounds
The Marlborough Sounds
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
The view as you head out of Picton on the ferry.
Flying Kiwi day twenty five - Nelson
It was then on to Picton for our ferry and where we would drop of those who wouldn't be staying with us on the trip back to the North Island. Laura, Catrina, Ilisa and Kerstin left us in Nelson, while Matteo, John and Yvonne got off in Picton.
We also had to leave our guide, Lisa, at Picton as she'd then have a nine day holiday before starting a whole new trip around both islands. She was an awesome driver and guide, really enthusiastic and always there to help us. It's a very intense job with few breaks, and given that it's her first solo trip, I thought she did superbly.
The eleven of us who were travelling North then got on the ferry, which took about three hours to reach Wellington, where we stayed at Base Backpackers.
Dolphins at Abel Tasman
Dolphins at Abel Tasman
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
Bottle-nosed dolphins playing at Abel Tasman National Park.
Saturday, November 26, 2005
Flying Kiwi day twenty four - Abel Tasman National Park
Most people on the bus did a kayaking trip, but as I'd already done kayaking at Coromandel, I chose to go on a seven hour sailing trip around the various bays and islands of the national park instead. The wind was ironically absent, so the captain just cruised around the coast using the ship's engine.
After a look at Split Apple Rock and trip up a river, amongst other things, we stopped at Anchorage Beach for lunch. Although the weather wasn't ideal with overcast skies, the scenery made up for it. The sand was probably the best I've seen since I've been in New Zealand; soft and golden like you see in postcards of paradise islands.
Once we got back into the bay, a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins appeared and followed us around for about half an hour, playing around in the sea before us. It was especially cool because on a ship like ours, there are no walls or windows to get in the way, so you can stand on the front corners and take pictures from a great viewpoint. Most of the others on the boat seemed to give up taking pictures after a while because their cameras weren't fast enough, so I managed to get an excellent set of photos from the trip. That evening we went out to a local cafe for a meal, and while the food wasn't quite up to standard, there were a bunch of cool local artists providing the music.
Flying Kiwi day twenty three - Punakaiki to Abel Tasman
Most of the day was spent on the bus travelling through Buller Gorge, with a stop for a walk to a seal colony and then a further break in Murchison for lunch. Most days we only drive for maybe three hours, but today was much longer in terms of time on the road, although we would spend two nights at Abel Tasman National Park to make up for it.
Flying Kiwi day twenty two - Punakaiki
After our walk to the rocks, we came back down the hill and had a drink in the local pub's nice garden, before heading off for the Truman Track up the road, which ultimately leads to a beach. The great weather, the presence of the rainforest and absence of cars made it feel more like a Caribbean island than New Zealand. You won't see this part of the country and this type of landscape in The Lord Of The Rings, so it doesn't always feature prominently in tourist material, but it should really be promoted more.
After a 20 minute walk through the rainforest of the Truman Track, you're rewarded with a narrow and secluded beach set in along the coastline. There only about six other people there and we had almost as long as we wanted, so Helene, Rebekka and I just spent an hour or two relaxing at the beach, taking a welcome break from our usually packed Flying Kiwi schedule.
We walked back for lunch at the pub, then went back to the campsite and helped to clean the bus. After another hour at the more immediate of the beaches, we had dinner and then went off to see a glow-worm cave, although the three luminous animals that we could find weren't that amazing.
Every now and then you need a day off, even from a bus tour, and that day was ours. It was just nice not to have to sit in the bus for hours or put up tents, things like that. The weather and company were great, so all in all, a very enjoyable day.
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
Flying Kiwi day twenty one - up the West coast
Our first port of call was a greenstone factory-shop, displaying some of the awesome Maori carvings which you can find all across New Zealand. From there, it was on to Ross, a village known for its huge untapped gold reserves, which can't be exploited unless all of its residents back a mining project. Ross is typical small town New Zealand; wide empty roads bordered by sporadic houses and the odd shop, with a vague claim to fame for some reason or another.
The town of Hokitika was our destination for lunch, where a number of us went off to a cool restaurant to sample the local favourite; white bait. I had an omlette filled with the tiny fish, and while it looked a bit odd, it tasted nice nonetheless.
Greymouth was our next stop, where Guy, James and Mel, who joined us in Auckland, got off to board the Trans-Alpine train that would take them across the waist of the South Island to Christchurch. Our final drive of the day was to Punakaiki, where we would camp for the next two nights.
Flying Kiwi day twenty - Fox Glacier
Guy and I had wanted to do a heli-hike up the glacier, but due to the weather it was cancelled and instead we decided to go on a four hour guided walk with a dozen others from the trip. We were suited up with waterproof gear, boots, socks and crampons (which stop you slipping on ice), before being driven to the foot of the glacier to start our ascent.
It continued to rain as we made our way up the valley to the glacier's snout, but after 40 minutes it cleared off and it became a really enjoyable hike. Our guide let us up the glacier through a pre-cut route which while well defined, was still pretty tough going.
I've studied glaciers at school before, but I'd never seen one in action, let alone walked around on top of one, so it was great to be able to go and experience something that you've only ever read about. On our way back down, we heard several loud groans from the glacier, followed by a huge chunk of ice the size of a small car falling off the front of it. Fox is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world at an advance of a metre a day, but I never expected to actually see it change quite so suddenly! Our guide had only ever seen a piece of ice fall of in such a way once before, so I guess we were very lucky in that respect.
Just as we got back on the Flying Kiwi bus, the heavens opened again and we drove through the rain to neighbouring Franz Josef, the sister glacier to Fox, where we stayed the night at a hostel.
Flying Kiwi day nineteen - Haast Pass
When we got to the top of the Pass, Lisa let us get off and cycle down the other side for about 10km. It was by no means as easy as the Milford Sound cycle, but the steep and winding road at the end was excellent and I arrived at the same time as the bus, which demonstrates either how quick I was or how slow the bus had to go!
After a walk to the Blue Pools, we continued on to Okuru for the night, where we had a BBQ dinner before the rain started to fall again; typical for the West Coast.
Flying Kiwi day eighteen - Lake Hawea
So on Friday (the 11th), we were in Queenstown and I had a late start before heading down into town to update this. I then returned to the campsite where Lisa - our guide - asked for my help with the shopping and I duly obliged. We went off to the supermarket, where we had to get food for 20 people for a few days, not a small amount I can assure you! Three trollies and $800 later, we drove back to the campsite and packed up everything ready to drive out at 3pm.
Four of our group left us at Queenstown;Andie and Alice who joined us in Auckland, followed by Anna and Marta who got on at Picton. We gained eight new people though, seven German exchange students and Katie from the UK. In total, we were now 22, of which only 7 were guys...
So on we went towards Lake Hawea, heading North and West to the coast. As we passed through the countryside, a rear tire on the bus blew, but fortunately outside of a pub, so we had to spend an hour or so relaxing in their beer garden. Back on the road again, we passed through Cromwell, New Zealand's fruit capital (with giant fruit in the centre of town!), before ending up at a rainy Lake Hawea for the night.
Thursday, November 10, 2005
Flying Kiwi day seventeen - still in Queenstown
The first thing I had booked was the Shotover Jet, a jet boat on the Shotover River. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the activity, but then it was recommended by Lisa (our guide) who used to work there. Essentially, you're sat in a powerful jet boat as the driver speeds down the narrow river valley for 25 minutes. They purposefully made sure to drive as close to the rocks as possible and the driver took each bend in the river like a rally driver; sideways. I didn't quite know what to expect from the Shotover Jet, but it turned out to be a lot of fun and good value for money. It was even better since I got the front seat in the boat next to the driver!
From there it was on to a helicopter ride, which took five of us up to The Remarkables, a series of mountains above Queenstown. The views were spectacular as you'd expect and the pilot even landed on top of a mountain to allow us to get off and take photos, which was great. From The Remarkables, we then flew back down to the airport and got a shuttle back into Queenstown.
Queenstown itself is an off place, a pure tourist resort which seems to be growing at a rapid pace. It's only got 10,000 people, but that doubles seasonally and there are plenty of contruction sites wherever you go. Its pedestrian-friendly downtown area almost feels European with cafes having room to put tables out in the streets. Auckland and a lot of other towns have much less of an emphasis on pedestrians. On top of all the adventure activities there are, the scenery is spectacular and it makes a great setting for overpriced bungy jumps and the like.
Anyway, we're off out of Queenstown and up the West Coast today (the 11th), so expect more sporadic updates for the next 10 days or so.
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Lake Wakatipu
Lake Wakatipu
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
This is the lake that Queenstown is on, although the town is around the corner, not on this section of the water.
After my stunt plane flight
After my stunt plane flight
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
The Pitts Special is like a Grand Prix car; it's designed for speed and agility, having only enough fuel for 30 mins!
Flying Kiwi day sixteen - Queenstown
On the way, we stopped at a viewpoint over the 'S' shaped Lake Wakatipu and it was probably one of the best views I've seen in New Zealand yet, and that's saying something. As I stood upon a rocky outcrop, I could see the mountains, lake and forests before me. It was almost like The Lord of the Rings theme music was going to come on any second.
We had the whole afternoon in Queenstown to do whatever we wanted, so after lunch I went up in a Pitts Special Red Bull stunt plane for 20 minutes, which was so good it was beyond words. The weather was great and the team there were so laid back almost to the point of being worrying. It turned out to be so much better than my already high expectations, as we did numerous turns, loops, rolls and the like. The scenery wasn't bad either!
We've got another day and a half here, so I'll save some other observations for then.
Dolphins in Milford Sound
Dolphins in Milford Sound
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
Spectacular scenery and wildlife; what more could you want?
Flying Kiwi day fifteen - Milford Sound
There's only one road from Te Anau to Milford Sound and it runs through more scenic highlights than you'll ever see in many countries. The road climbs up through the glacial valleys to the 1270m Homer Tunnel, a project that took 18 years to complete. Once we were on the other side, we had the oppurtunity to cycle 18km downhill through the valley to The Chasm.
Being such an easy ride through such a spectacular landscape, I didn't hesitate to get on a bike and down the hill. It turned out to be the most enjoyable bike ride I've ever done, with no traffic and a sky without a cloud in sight.
We arrived at The Chasm in a matter of minutes, far quicker than I expected, and we had a chance to have a walk to the waterfall it's named after. The views around and down the valley were so good that it was almost unbelieveable. Pictures can't even do many of the places I've visited in New Zealand justice.
We got back on to the bus and drove the remaining distance downhill towards Milford Sound itself. With such clear waters, towering peaks and perfect weather, it certainly lived up to the hype that is basked upon it.
A small boat cruise at noon took us out into and around the fjord for two hours, and proved to be one of the best things I've done in New Zealand so far. The luck we had was quite amazing. Fiordland is one of the wettest places in the world, with 7m of rainfall annually, yet there were no clouds. I also chose to stand at the very front of the boat, outside, which as you'll read in a minute was an unbelivably good choice. What happened in the next couple of hours was so good that you wondered 'when the dice would stop rolling sixes', as it were.
We sailed out towards the side of the fjord, admiring the towering sides and the immense Mitre Peak, one of the highest mountains in the world to rise directly out of the sea. Waterfalls tumble down from hanging valleys and the vegetation on the fjord's sides are essentially tropical rainforest. There were even a seal and a couple of penguins waddling around on the rocks.
When we got out into the open ocean, something happened which I never expected; a pod of dolphins appeared. You may or may not know, but dolphins don't just sit alongside a ship and swim away; they come over and play, racing alongside almost within touching distance. They especially like swimming at the front of a ship, exactly where I was standing. The next few minutes was awesome, as I took photo after photo and got to see dolphins for the third time in a fortnight. The pod came back again twice, so I got a ton of shots, partly due to the motor drive on my camera allowing me to take photos one after another, like a machine gun. As you'll see, I think I got some stunning images.
Words and pictures can't really describe how good the morning was. I got such a buzz from seeing dolphins so close up and being able to take photos from such a great position. It was even better in the context of the weather and the spectacular scenery. I don't think I've ever been so lucky.
After the cruise, we headed back up the valley to The Devide, where those who were going on the Routeburn Track got off. I didn't opt to go on the three day hike because I would have to buy all of the gear for an alpine walk and don't have anywhere to put it all once I've finished. The remaining seven of us returned to Te Anau, where another great sunset greeted us at an end to an outstanding day.
Flying Kiwi day fourteen - into Fiordland
Our first stop was the town of Gore, which is particularly greedy when it comes to its claims to fame, for it is 'the brown trout fishing capital of the world' and 'the country music capital of New Zealand'. To mark its significance, an equally enormous and ridiculous trout about 10m high resides in the town square.
We had a picnic lunch in the tiny town of Lumsden, before heading off to Lake Manapouri, where we had an hour to walk down to and relax on Fraser's Beach. The sun was out and the scenery was outstanding, making it one of the recent highlights of the trip. There are so many beautiful spots like this around the country, but none seem to be overly busy or exploited.
Our final leg of the day was to Lake Te Anau, and the campsite on its shores where we would stay for the next two nights. As the sun went down, I went to get some pictures and the sunset couldn't have looked better if someone had painted it on.
Flying Kiwi day thirteen - Dunedin
Dunedin is the second largest city in the South Island of New Zealand, with a population of about 115,000. It was founded by Scottish settlers and its name comes from the Gaelic translation of Edinburgh. We only had about three or four hours in the city, so I only managed to have lunch, visit the Cadbury chocolate factory and update this on the Internet. Unfortunately the Cadbury factory wasn't working as usual because it was a Sunday, so there was a more restricted tour which wasn't as good as I had maybe expected. Nevertheless, I got some chocolate at factory prices and we all met up again to proceed to our next novelty stop.
Baldwin Street in Dunedin is the world's steepest street, and we stopped for five minutes to admire its magnificence. From top to bottom, its angle is 19 degrees, but because it's curved, the steepest point is more like 40. It's fairly discrete, with only a small sign pointing out its record breaking credentials, but its novelty is entertaining nonetheless.
From there it was on to Kaka Point on the Catlins Coast, where we camped for the night. Before bed, we let off some fireworks on the beach left over from the previous day. I found it maybe a little ironic that they celebrate Bonfire Night, when Guy Fawkes attempted to blow up the Houses of Parliament, even when the even predates New Zealand being discovered by Europeans by about 50 years.
Aoraki Mount Cook
Aoraki Mount Cook
Originally uploaded by Toytown Mafia.
This is about 100m away from where we camped. Aoraki Mount Cook is the furthest and highest peak, slightly covered in cloud.
Flying Kiwi day twelve - Aoraki Mount Cook and Oamaru
The gales were still blowing too strong for Lisa to safely drive the bus, so we hung out in the kitchen and lounge at the campsite, waiting for the wind to die down. When it did so and the sun came out, I went for a walk down to the lake and got some great photos of Aoraki Mount Cook, before joining everyone else back at the camp to head off at around 11am. We drove to Aoraki Mount Cook village and its information centre (where I had the tastiest muffin of my trip yet!), before continuing to the town of Oamaru.
Back on the East Coast, we had a walk around Oamaru for an hour, before heading to camp, where I propmtly got a room to ensure that I didn't have to sleep anywhere that had moving walls!
Now that I've mentioned Oamaru, I think it's time to give some observations on the South Island's small towns. First of all, it's almost impossible to get run over by a car, due to the lack of traffic and the courtesy of the drivers. You're equally unlikely to find a shop open when you want it to be, even if it's Saturday afternoon or lunchtime during the week (I don't know what sort of opening hours system they operate, but it's certainly an odd one). What we know as newsagents or cornershops are called dairies here. Such shops only stock one paper, usually a local one with two pages of international news, so you're preactically cut off from the goings on of the world. Such towns are always famous for something, as you've already found out and will do later on.
Flying Kiwi day eleven - Rangitata and Aoraki Mount Cook National Park
We passed through and stopped at a town called Geraldine for 20 minutes, home to a piece of knitwear of novelty proportions. Every small town in New Zealand seems to love being famous for something, and Geraldine is the residence of the World's Largest Jumper.
Of course, I couldn't resist going to have a look at it, so I went into the Giant Jersey shop in which it's housed. Hanging on the wall alongside its Guiness Book of Records certificate, the enormous jumper is patterned with lots of different squares, featuring sheep and the like. I asked the guy behind the counter who made the jumper, to which he replied "me". Wanting to know more about the intruiging world of record-breaking textile contruction, I asked if anyone had tried it on and why it was made in the first place. Apparently it's too large for anyone, but a family could fit inside, and it was made to give the store an identity, not the break the record. There you go.
Feeling satisfied with Geraldine after speaking to the maker of the World's Largest Jumper, I got back on the bus as we headed to the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. Lisa (our guide, remember) dropped us off for a walk down to Lake Tekapo, which ended at the Church of the Good Shepherd. A tiny stone building perched on the edge of the lake surrounded by mountains, it certainly gave a real sense of scale to the place. The lake itself was beautiful, but superlatives like that lose their sense of scale when you're somewhere like New Zealand where everything is at such a high standard.
After our walk, we continued on to our campsite at Lake Pukaki, the glacial lake at the foot of Aoraki Mount Cook. Aoraki Mount Cook is New Zealand's highest mountain at 3754m and is called that to combine its Maori and European names. Our campsite sat on the shore of the lake in the floor of the glacial valley, completely surrounded by mountains, with Aoraki Mount Cook as the furthest of the peaks about five miles away. Combined with the beautiful (if windy) weather, it was ludicrously picturesque.
Flying Kiwi day ten - whales and Christchurch
It turned out that the ship was sailing, but that because it was the first of the day, they didn't know where the whales were exactly, so we would act as a scout to go and find them. After a safety briefing, we were bussed off to the launch and boarded our ship, Paikea. Incidentally, Paikea is the name of the whale rider in Maori mythology.
What really surprised me was the professionalism of Whale Watch Kaikoura. They had four very modern boats with very comfortable seating and a plasma screen display in each one, showing graphics to illustrate the position of the boat along with all of the wildlife we saw. We had full commentary along the way and you really got to understand the background to everything that was going on.
The first half an hour was spent moving from one area to the next, with the captain stopping and lowering a hydrophone to listen for the sperm whales. The whales come up for air every 45 minutes on average and only remain on the surface for 5, so we were very lucky to see two of them within a minute of each other.
You could only see their backs as the remainder of their body stayed submerged, apart from a brief yet spectacular showing of their tail when they dived back into the ocean. Whale watching isn't the most exciting of experiences, but it's certainly humbling to see one of the world's largest animals from so close up.
On our return, it was off to Christchurch, a city named after the cathedral college of Christ Church in the University of Oxford. With a population of 345,000 it's the largest city in the South Island and lies on the East coast. We only had a couple of hours in which to get a taste of the city, so after a quick lunch I went to the city centre and its cathedral. The views from the top of the spire where hardly insipiring, excuse the pun, and the building was far from spectacular, so I went back down and towards the Art Gallery.
As one of the Rough Guide's "35 things not to miss", the Christchurch Art Gallery is housed in a very modern and striking building. I only had about 15 minutes inside since I was short on time, but I got to look round a couple of the galleries, which seemed nice enough. I then headed off to the Arts Centre opposite, specifically to Rutherford's Den.
Ernest Rutherford is the guy on New Zealand's 100 dollar note and is known as the father of nuclear physics. The Den is a small tribute to him and contains several rooms where he spend some time studying, teaching and experimenting in Christchurch. I only had 10 minutes inside, but it was interesting to see a bit of his history, since I learnt about him during Physics lessons at school.
We met up outside Christchurch's museum and we headed off to Rangitata after picking up six new people; two Germans, a Scot, a Brazilian, an American and a Swede. Up til then, the group had been split exactly equally in terms of gender, but of the six, five were female, so it added an interesting dynamic to the group.
We arrived at Rangitata, inland and South of Christchurch, and ended a long day with a meal under the stars, sleeping in a lodge that was practically in the middle of nowhere.
Flying Kiwi day nine - Kaikoura
After a stroll through the small village, we had the option of going for a walk then a short cycle, or doing a much longer cycle. Since it was such a nice day, I decided to go for the former and it must have been one of the best choices I've made since I've been here.
The walking track went up and over a headland that juts out into the Pacific, so you got a great view back over two bays and onto the land. The weather was perfect and the scenery was beyond beautiful. You could see the beaches, followed by the bright blue water, the land and then the mountains behind. It was like someone had come along and painted the scene for us; it was too good to be true. A sign at the top of the cliff summed it up, "Is this the best view in New Zealand?"
After a couple of hours walking and taking pictures, we met back up at the bus and then cycled off down the coast for 9km towards the campsite. It was a flat and easy ride, made even better by such an awesome landscape.
Our campsite was right on the beach, so we could walk along the sand at sunset with the Pacific on our right and a range of mountains on our left. I've never been anywhere quite like it.
Sunday, November 06, 2005
Flying Kiwi day eight - Wellington
After Te Papa, we caught a lift on the cable car to the Botanical Gardens for a stroll through the park and to see the panoramic views of the city. We didn't have enough time to get a real feeling for Wellington, but it seems a nice enough place, compacted by its surrounding hills unlike the hugely sprawling Auckland.
At 6, we said goodbye to the North Island and boarded a ferry to Picton. The sailing took about two hours and we got to pass through the Marlborough Sounds at sunset, so it proved to be a relaxing break from such an active schedule.
On arrival at Picton, we were transferred to a hostel which was extremely comfortable, with duvets and an en suite bathroom. Camping really makes you appreciate things like electricity that you usually take for granted wihtout even thinking about it.
Flying Kiwi day seven - Tongariro National Park
A six hour walk took us to a waterfall and the lower lake and back, across scenery that could have been taken right out of a film or postcard. It was barren and desolate, unlike much of the agricultural North Island, and felt untouched by civilization.
After a much deserved drink, we continued on to a hostel and had an entertaining Halloween party, complete with costume. As usual, we didn't stay up too late; such are the consequences of waking up at 6 every day and doing so much. Each day seems like two or three, we always seem to be on the go.
Tuesday, November 01, 2005
Flying Kiwi day six - Taupo
I was booked in to go skydiving in the afternoon and the weather was ominously cloudy, but I decided to wait around and go to the airport anyway to see if it would clear up. While the others - Guy, Rebekka, Andie, James, Mel, Pascal and Alice - went on a walk to Taupo, I took the shuttle bus to the aerodrome from the town centre.
When I go there it looked very professional, if a bit commercial, with lots of staff and gear around. The three others in my load and I got suited up and briefed on our jump, but when we were ready to go, it started to rain for the first time in about a week. Typical, eh?
So we waited around for two hours until it stopped raining, then hung around looking expectantly at the tandem masters who make the call and do the jumps. We were told that they'd take us up in the plane and hanve a look, but we might not jump at all if the weather was still not good enough. After so much waiting, it was certainly reliveing to be up in the air.
We climbed up over Lake Taupo and my tandem master - the guy who you're strapped to - told me that I couldn't jump at 15,000 feet, but instead at 12,000, which I was fine with. We were the last one out of the plane and into the cloud, and what an experience it was.
Because of the weather, you couldn't see a lot for the first seconds of freefall and you tumble to begin with, so it was extremely disorientating. Once we got level and through the clouds it was much better, but still a complete assault on the senses. When the parachute opened there was a huge jolt and you could sit back and enjoy the scenery, but I found it even more frightening that the freefall part, because it feels like you're just hanging by a thread above the ground.
It's almost too hard to describe in words; skydiving is so quick and intense that it takes a while to sink in. It's definitely worth the money though!
Flying Kiwi day five - Rotorua
Rotorua itself stinks. Literally. Because of the tectonic activity, there's a smell of sulphur - like rotten eggs - hanging in the air everywhere you go. You get used to it after a while, but I don't think I could stand living there.
We only had a couple of hours in the town, so most of us went to the Polynesian Spas which are styled as a Roman bath. There are hot pools there heated geothermally to about 40 degrees C, so you could sit and bake slowly, overlooking Lake Rotorua. A nice end to a good, if somewhat foul-smelling day.
Saturday, October 29, 2005
Flying Kiwi day four - the Coromandel Peninsula
Now with eight people plus our driver/guide, we headed on to the Coromandel Peninsula. We stopped for about 30 mins to get the bus looked at for repairs, then pressed on to our campsite. When we got there, we went off on a three hour sea kayak to Cathedral Cove, which was a lot of fun, if a bit wet!
I wasn't quite sure about the Flying Kiwi tour to begin with, but I'm really getting in to it now. I guess it's just the change of routine and pace from having lots of time in the same place in Auckland, to getting up early every day and travelling with Flying Kiwi.
Anyway, got to go, Rotorua calls!
Flying Kiwi day three - Northland West coast
Next on the route was a forrest in which Kauri trees grow. Native to New Zealand, they can grow to huge sizes but only a few of the older ones are left standing. We went and walked to the largest one left, at 1200 years old. It wasn't very tall, but still enormous, with a diameter of about 5m.
We camped near the beach at Waiwera and went for a swim at the Hot Pools there, a set of pools heated geothermally, which was a nice relaxing end to the day.
Thursday, October 27, 2005
Flying Kiwi day two - Bay of Islands
After navigating the Hole in the Rock on Piercy Island, the captain dropped us of on an undeveloped island for a couple of hours, giving us the choice of what we wanted to do. While some went swimming or snorkelling, I went for a walk to the summit on the island to look back and admire the scenery. If you ever had a preconception about what paradise might look like, it'll be close to what this place was. It was almost like being in the TV series 'Lost', with the palm trees and empty beaches leading up to untouched forrests on hillsides. You really had to see it to believe it.
When we got back to Paihia, Rebekka and I walked to Waitangi to visit the Treaty Grounds. This is where the Maori chiefs and the delegation from Britain signed the Treaty of Waitangi, which is essentailly the founding document of New Zealand. The English translation didn't say exactly the same as the Maori one, and issues arising from that are still relevant today.
After grabbing some dinner at a fish and chip shop, we headed back to the Treaty Grounds to watch an evening Maori culture show. Performed in a traditonal meeting house decked out with the full decorative carvings, it gave a theatrical representation of the main Maori legends and their cultural background. After studying exploititive tourism in Geography at school, it was hard not to think about it in that context, but it obviously wasn't in the same context as places like Kenya. The show was really good though, and explained all of the basic Maori traditions and priciples through and entertaining storyline.
Not a bad day to mark the completion of my first two weeks in New Zealand!
Flying Kiwi day one - travelling North
Off we drove north towards Paihia in the Bay of Islands, travelling out of the urban core of the North Island and into the countryside. We stopped for lunch on a beautiful sandy beach before moving on. I somewhat stupidly chose to cycle a route into Paihia and then to the campsite, failing to take on board the labels of "difficult ride" and "rough terrain". Needless to say, it was tough! I rode (and walked) through forrests and agricultural land, then down the coastline and on to the campsite. I originally planned to cycle to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, but it took me much longer than I initally planned, so I just went back to the campsite. When I got back, we had dinner and then after many attempts, got a fire going, before heading off to sleep.
Monday, October 24, 2005
Last days in Auckland (for now)
Jennifer had lost her voice from a couple of nights before, so I ended up learning a bit of sign language and having things written down for me all day, which proved an amusing and interesting experience. We checked out the flat, me interpreting, and the couple there seemed really nice, but there was no Internet access so I don't think Jennifer is going to go for it. We went up to North Head (one of the volcanoes) to watch the sun set, then headed back down for a meal in town, before heading back into Auckland. With all things considered, a great day.
Today is a public holiday in New Zealand, so there wasn't much open, but Jennifer and I met up with Jesse, Matt and a couple of their friends for lunch. After that, Jennifer and I went to a bar called Minus 5, where everything is made of ice, from the walls to the cups you drink from. Donning big Russian coats, you're only allowed 25 minutes inside for as many $12 vodka cocktails as you can afford, but it was really cool (no pun intended) while it lasted. Then this evening we had dinner in the revolving restaurant up in the Sky Tower, which was awesome, even if it was expensive.
Tomorrow morning I start the second stage of my stay in New Zealand, leaving on a month long Flying Kiwi bus tour around the whole country. I don't know how much access I'll have to the Internet, but I'll do my best to keep you all informed of how I'm doing (and thanks for reading so far!).
Auckland isn't the greatest city, but it's one with a hell of a lot of positives. Everyone around here is friendly, I've never felt unsafe, the islands in the Gulf are breathtaking and there's enough farmilar to feel comfortable. A lot of people only stay here a few days, but it definitely deserves greater credit than it receives.
In the last 12 days I've met people from numerous countries and made some great friends. If it's been this good so far, I can't wait for the months ahead!
Saturday, October 22, 2005
Kelly Tarlton's and rugby
Anyway, I went over to IEP and then on to Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium. I had a 20% discount and there's a free shuttle bus there, so at least I didn't have to pay all of the extortionate entrance fee. I didn't know what to expect from it, but it wasn't too great once you got inside. The aquarium only had about three main tanks and didn't even take an hour to go round. The big selling point was a tunnel through one of the tanks which you could walk through, but it proved to be fairly tame and uninteresting. It was such a contrast between it and the far cheaper and better Auckland Museum.
In the evening I met up with Jesse, Matt and Jennifer, and we went out to the bars and clubs down in the Viaduct area in Auckland Harbour. We were out until 5, so it was a tiring night to say the least!
Consequently, today was a bit of a lazy day. I met up with Jennifer for lunch and then we went to see the rugby NPC final in the evening on a trip that the hostel had organised. It was the last game of the season between Auckland and Otago, but the stadium wasn't sold out and the tickets were only $25 including transport. Auckland won quite convincingly to the delight of much of the crowd and it was an entertaining game, even if it did rain a little to begin with.
Over the next few days I'll be winding up my stay in Auckland, with an easy day tomorrow and packing to do on Monday, ready for my morning departure on Tuesday.
Thursday, October 20, 2005
Auckland Museum
So today Simon and I went off to the Auckland Museum, really just to do something instead of sitting around all day. I didn't really expect much from it to be honest, but it turned out to be superb. The first surprise came when we had to hand in our bags and I read a sign, "You may take photographs in the museum". Usually it's strictly forbidden because of the fading that flash can cause to objects.
The museum was originally built as a war memorial after World War 1, but it now had three floors covering Maori culture, natural history and conflicts that Kiwis have been involved in. It's not one of those typical boring places though; there are loads of interactive demos and kiosks.
I must have taken about 50 photos throughout my visit, it was like being allowed to do something that you've been forbidden from doing for ages. I don't like using flash and it's not the most subtle thing to use in a museum, so I just opened up the aperture on my camera, dialled up the ISO and it worked fine.
I found the Maori section particularly interesting; it's amazing how intricate their carving is given the materials and equipment they used. The natural history section didn't grab me as much, but there was a small modern history room there, with displays on the last few decades. They even had a cabinet for 1990s kids, complete with a PlayStation! I guess that's what happens when you become an adult; people start collecting your outdated stuff and preserving it for future generations to smirk at.
Maori art at the Auckland Museum
Tuesday, October 18, 2005
Rangitoto Island
Viewed from afar, the island looks like it's covered in trees like a rainforest, hiding it's more interesting parts. Because of its relative youth, there's very little soil and instead the ground is made up almost exclusively of fields of black volcanic rock. Paths have been laid down to provide a route to the summit and around the coast, but apart from that it's essentially untamed with no permanent residents or businesses. The weather was probably the best since I've been here and the views from the summit were equally stunning. An interesting point of the trip was the volcano's perfectly circular crater, which you climb up and around to reach Rangitoto's summit.
We came back down and ended up having an hour before the ferry came, so I went for a wander down the coast to take some pictures. It was then that I noticed and read about the baches (I don't know how it's pronounced), which are the houses of those who used to live on the island. Apparently there were around 190 people resident there during the 1930s. These baches are all restored and conserved, fully furnished with period articles, so it's like walking around a living museum; there's even washing on the line outside. It was maybe a little odd that one of the island's highlights was so poorly advertised, but I guess they don't want such a fragile environment overrun with a bunch of tourists.
In the evening, I went to the IEP (the work and travel hosting company) office for a pubmeet that they were laying on. We went to a place I hadn't seen before and we joined in a pub quiz for a few hours. Even though there were about 15 in our group, I hadn't met all but 2 of them before, even though the previous social event was only on Friday. It's great to be able to meet up with completley new people who you have something in common with.
I also picked up a FHiNZ (Farm Helpers in New Zealand) book, which lists farmstays all across the country. Their system works by you working for a few hours a day in exchange for food and accomodation. It seems like a great way to meet the locals and it's of course cheap, so I'll probably do that for my remaining six weeks in New Zealand.
One week on, quite a few to go!
So on Monday, Simon and I went on a free tour laid on by Kiwi Experience, the main bus tour company in New Zealand. I've already booked a tour with another company, but it was free and another oppurtunity to meet other people, so why not?
So the guide took us on a three hour trip around Auckland, stopping off at Devonport as the main destination. We'd already been there previously, but the guide pointed out a few new things that I hadn't seen before. It was ultimately a marketing exercise for Kiwi Experience who are trying to sign up as many of us for their tours, but it as long as you knew that, it was an enjoyable free trip around town.
That evening Simon and I went back to Devonport by ferry and after dinner, we ventured up to one of the extinct volcanoes to photograph Auckland by sunset and night. It took a while to figure out the best perspective, but I think I got some cool shots of the harbour and the city behind it.
Observation of the Day - In New Zealand, prices are always to the nearest 5 or 10 cents, so you never get anything priced 2.99 and end up with a ton of useless change. I haven't even seen a 1 or 2 cent coin yet!
Monday, October 17, 2005
Sunday, October 16, 2005
Waiheke Island
We looked at hiring a car for the day as it was only NZ$50, but the deposit was NZ$750 and we were reluctant to risk that, so we walked and took the bus instead. We only got to visit one beach and the main village on the island, but it proved more than adequete. We stopped off at Palm Beach (opting for that over Blackpool Beach!) and it really was stunning. For those of us who aren't used to such beaches, the sight of litter-less sand and relatively clear water is something to behold. We had a drink and a cake in the afternoon sun (it's a hard life for some!) before moving off back to the ferry terminal and back to our hostels.
This evening Simon and I met up with Jay to say goodbye to him, since he's off on a Kiwi Experience bus tour tomorrow. He'll be in Sydney at the same time as me though, so I'm sure we'll meet up again.
Incidentally, on the way to the pub I spotted a shop called "Pie Mania", which definitely deserves further investigation!
Skytower
The Skytower is probably the most obvious thing to visit in Auckland and it's only about 250m away from our hostel. It's the tallest building in the Southern hemisphere (although it has little competition) and we went up to the observation deck at 220m. The weather had really cleared up so you could see for miles around the city, including its most prominent volcanoes, islands and harbours.
Viewing Auckland from above naturally gives you a completely different perspective on things and it turns out that one of the best looking skyscrapers in the city is right next to our hostel and I didn't even notice it before! There are plenty of tall buildings in the city, but you really don't register them until you see Auckland from a distance.
Saturday, October 15, 2005
IEP and Auckland
It seems that there are lots of companies reselling the IEP service throughout Europe and N. America, because out of 30 of us, there were only 3 who had English as their first language. The woman who was giving the talk went through lots of information about working and travelling around New Zealand, along with what their company provides. They're only open Monday to Friday, but you can use the Internet for free and their computers are much better than this one!
One of the more intesting points that I picked up was about WWOFFing, which is where you work on an organic farm for 5 hours a day for your food and accomodation. Because I'll only have 6 weeks left in NZ when I get back from my month tour with Flying Kiwi, I'd have to stay in one place if I chose to get a job. WWOFFing might be the best way to get to know the locals and see the parts of the country that I want to visit in more detail.
So after my orientation talk, I met up with Jay, Nikki and Simon again and we went for a walk around Auckland. Karangahape Road was meant to be all funky like Camden in London but wasn't very exciting, so we went onto The Domain - Auckland's main park - and then back into the city centre.
Auckland is the third largest city in the world in terms of the area that it covers, but it only houses 1 million people. The downtown area where I'm staying is packed with skyscrapers owned by the big insurance companies, but you rarely notice their presence at all. It's not like The City in London where all of the financial insitutions are bunched together; here everything's completly mixed up.
There's enough similar for it to be comfortable, but enough different from home to be interesting. Cars drive on the same side of the road, but around 90% of them are Japanese. I haven't even seen a VW, Renault or a Citroen yet! The Asian and Maori population is also huge here, about 20% although it seems much higher around here, but it doesn't feel like there's any segregation at all.
I went out to The Playhouse in the evening, an English style pub except without the smell as smoking in public places is banned over here. I met up with a group of people from a New Zealand backpacking website and had a great time before coming back to the hostel.
Friday, October 14, 2005
Devonport
The sun came out just as we got there and the view from the ferry port alone was stunning. You could see a stretch of beach, the unusually (for me!) clear water and the whole length of the CBD.
The difference between the downtown area of Auckland and Devonport was almost surreal; it was like you'd stepped into Florida, but with a Kiwi twist. Palm trees line the roads, there's no sign of large national stores and the traffic is much reduced. There doesn't seem to be much of a planning standard either; all of the plantation style houses are completely different, but equally charming and well kept.
We ventured up to Mount Victoria, one of Auckland's 50 volcanoes, and when we go to the summit the view was even more spectacular. We could see a complete panorama of Auckland and it's suburbs, plus the islands to the east.
It was nice to get out of the city centre where our hostels are and to somewhere that really warrants you being in New Zealand. If you don't go out every day and do something like this, you're bound to get homesick because it won't feel like there's a reason for you to be here.
P.S. My mobile phone number in NZ is +64 (0)21 0225 4964. So if you dial from outside of NZ, go for 00642102254964.
Wednesday, October 12, 2005
I'm here!
The flights were okay and I managed to get a great seat by economy standards for the longest legs of the journey. I ended up getting a bulkhead seat with no-one in front of me, so I had a ton of legroom. I didn't get much sleep, but got enough to see me through.
The stop at Bangkok was about 3-4 hours long, but when we got to Sydney it was taken down to about 30 minutes because of a delay in docking the aircraft.
It turned out that when we got to Auckland that all of our baggage hadn't made the journey with us, so about 10 of us who had travelled from Heathrow had to wait an hour or so to collect our larger packs. I hung around with a couple of other backpackers and we went for a drink while we waited for the packs to come through. It was nice at least to have someone else in the same situation as yourself.
So I've booked into the ACB hostel and it's better than I expected. The dorm is just four beds and there's plenty of space and a more than adequete locker for my luggage.
I'm not sure what I'm doing tomorrow, probably have a look around the immediate area and make my way towards the tourist information centre. If the weather's nice I might even go and do a bit of photography.
Monday, October 10, 2005
Packed and ready to go!
I'm not quite sure how, but with a bit of help I've managed to pack everything into my two bags and now I'm almost set for the flight. Trying to fit everything that you'll need for 11 months into a bag isn't easy, trust me! Both bags came under the weight limits allowed, but when I tried it on it was extremely heavy. I'm not planning to carry around a third of my own body weight a lot though, so my back should be safe!
Anyway, my flight leaves at 10pm, so I have to be there to check in at 8, so need to leave the house at 6. My parents and grandmother are coming with me to the airport to say goodbye and several other people have already wished me well, so that's nice. I'll certainly miss a lot of people, but I'm really looking forward to the eleven months ahead. I haven't had any second thoughts yet, so that must be a good sign!
Thursday, August 18, 2005
Nottingham University, here I come!
My firm choice - Sheffield - asked for BBB, but I got ABD, so they couldn't offer me a place. I then phoned up Nottingham - my insurance offer - who initially asked for ABB and they accepted me! =D
Tuesday, August 09, 2005
Visas granted, flights booked
So, an update as I near my departure date. I've applied for and been granted work and travel visas for both New Zealand and Australia, plus I've just booked my flights today.
My itinerary works out like this:
10th October 2005 - depart London at 22:00
12th October 2005 - arrive Sydney at 06:05
12th October 2005 - depart Sydney at 07:15
12th October 2005 - arrive Auckland at 13:1511th January 2006 - depart Auckland at 15:50
11th January 2006 - arrive Sydney at 17:102nd July 2006 - depart Sydney at 22:15
3rd July 2006 - arrive London at 12:15
I'll be changing the last flight home to a later date, since I can't book it that early in advance yet.
Monday, June 27, 2005
Exams are over!
On the travel front, I need to send in my visa applications before I can book any flights, which should be done soon anyway. After that I guess it's just a matter of researching everything in more detail and planning on what exactly I'm going to take. Anyway, more soon...
Sunday, April 17, 2005
New Zealand
...has 6000 kilometers of coast line and nowhere is more than 120km from the coast.
...was the first western democracy to give women the vote.
...contains the most southerly capital city on the planet, Wellington.
...has a population of which 20% was born overseas.
...has won more Olympic gold medals, per capita, than any other country.
...is one of the top five dairy exporters in the world.
...has a population that is outnumbered by sheep by 10 to 1.
Saturday, April 09, 2005
Australia
...is 32 times larger than the United Kingdom, but contains only a third of the population.
...is the world's only island that is also a continent and its only continent that is also a country.
...is the only nation that began as a prison.
...is the home of the largest living thing on Earth, the Great Barrier Reef.
...is the flattest and driest inhabited continent on Earth.
...is one of the world's most urbanised countries, with about 70 per cent of the population living in the 10 largest cities.
...has a population that only 73% of is Australian-born, with the remaining residents hailing from countries like the United Kingdom, New Zealand and Italy.
Tuesday, March 15, 2005
The masterplan
After the Easter holidays, I only have six weeks of full-time school left. Doesn't time fly? From then I have about five weeks of sudy leave and exams, in which I'll be revising and working like crazy.
When my exams are all done in late June, I'll be straight out into full-time work to earn as much money as possible before I leave. My results (hopefully good ones!) will come out in August and then I plan to leave in October.
The basic gist of the whole trip is this: I fly out to New Zealand, work and travel there for about three months; then fly to Australia, work and travel there for about eight months; then fly back to the UK.
I'll be working and travelling because it'll be so damn expensive if I just go as a tourist. Being a working traveller also gives you twelve months or so in each country, while the tourist visa only allows you about three months.
I'm going to go with (not like a tour, as such) the Work & Travel Company, who provide a support network for travellers. They have a job finding service, sort out your visas, provide 24 hour help, free Internet access, discounts, orientation sessions and all sorts of useful things that are bound to prove useful when I'm out there.
I plan to visit almost all of New Zealand, from North to South, while in Australia I'll be concentrating on the South and East Coasts, plus a detour through the centre of the country. I'd like to obviously go to the main tourist attractions, but also to sample what it's really like by living and working in both countries. Only then, I think, will I be able to truly get a taste of each.
Current money saved - £2557.72